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About Plumbing
A person who looks after and maintains these pipes and fixtures is called a plumber. He either repairs or installs piping and other plumbing equipment, like taps, tubes, water heaters, toilets and toilet fixtures, etc. It is important that the pipes and drainage system are well in place, as it is a matter of not only convenience, but also hygiene and good health.
About Plumbing
Plumbing refers to the pipe systems and the installed fixture in a home or in a building for the purpose of transporting water and getting rid of waterborne wastes. The plumbing industry today is a substantial and very well developed industry, without which basic day-to-day functions, like washing your hands or using the toilet, would be tedious tasks. Every household and building requires clean water and collection and removal of wastes.
Plumbing, though, is very much distinguished from sewage systems, as plumbing is for a home or for a building, whereas sewage systems are for a group or complex of buildings or even an entire city.
What is required for a Plumbing System?
Pipes and Tubing Systems
Water systems installed in the olden days made use of gravity for the supply of water, which was transferred through pipes made of bamboo, lead or clay. Today, modern water systems use a complex network of pipes, which are made of copper, brass, plastic and other non-toxic materials connected to high pressure pumps. Lead has been discontinued in its usage as it is highly toxic, so a bad option to transfer water. Today vent lines and drain lines are made of steel, cast iron or plastic. The straight sections we see in a plumbing system are called the pipes or tubes. A tube is generally made through extrusions, but a pipe is made through casting or welding. Pipes have thick walls and can be threaded or welded, whereas tubing has thinner walls and is joined with special joining techniques, like compression fitting, brazing or crimping. Plastic tubing requires solvent welding to join it.
Fittings
Plumbing also requires certain fittings in addition to the pipes and tubes. Valves, tees, elbows and unions are some fittings that will be required.
Fixtures
Fixtures are those that are used by the end users. Fixtures are taps, urinals, showers, bathtubs, urinals, water closets that are toilets, kitchen sinks, ice makers, humidifiers, drinking fountains, etc.
Equipment
Equipment required for plumbing includes:
? Pumps
? Water meters
? Backflow preventers
? Water softeners
? Expansion tanks
? Water heaters
? Gauges
? Heat exchangers
? Filters
? Control systems
? Hydro jets
? CCTV cameras
Systems and Subsystems for Plumbing
? Surface, subsurface and rainwater drainage systems
? Vents, traps and drains
? Portable hot and cold water supply systems
? Septic systems
? Fuel gas pipe lines
Plumbing Maintenance Engineer
My years working as a Master plumber I have seen many companies hire individuals who have little experience with plumbing. Many companies will use other workers in the maintenance department to perform plumbing work and when it comes to basic plumbing tasks like plunging sinks and toilets this is a large savings to the company.
My problem is when you have large companies who don’t hire skilled plumbers to do plumbing maintenance. It takes years to learn the plumbing trade to develop skills to master the art of plumbing, to trouble shooting, perform problem solving, and understand code compliance.
If you are new to plumbing and want to become a maintenance plumber my advice; ask your company to send you too as many classes on plumbing that are available in your area.
Most individuals who apply for a maintenance plumbers positions have handy man skills and can unplug a sink, toilet, lavatory, make simple repairs to faucets, and other minor skills that would be required by a handy man.
Companies would profit in the long run by hiring skilled licensed plumbers. Today companies like to call maintenance plumbers by all kinds of names like maintenance engineers, building engineers, maintenance technicians, general engineers and other handy-man job tittles.
If you happen to be one of these individuals and your hired by a company I’m sure you don’t care what they call you as long as they pay you well.
The information in this article is to help you stay employed and prosper as a employee in the plumbing field.
It has taken me years to learn the trade and master the art of plumbing. There is a big difference in working as a maintenance plumber or a service plumber as apposed to working as a construction plumber.
I believe that being a construction plumber and a service plumber takes years of experience and by having skills in both areas, is key to your job growth and longevity.
My new book called “Flush Your Plumbing Troubles Down The Toilet” is available on Amazon.com and is a valuable book on what you need to know on how to save your company money by knowing and learning the information in the book.
If you follow my instructions and properly set up a preventive plumbing maintenance program, learn how to freeze water and steam lines, understand back flow, & cross-connections, estimate the time to get work done, actually perform maintenance on your hot water circulating system, use green plumbing techniques, and other crucial tasks, you will become a valuable asset to your organization and be able to stay working for a very long time.
I can assure you that companies are not doing the things I recommend in my book, and if you learn and do the things I recommend in the book you will become indispensable.
Big Tony The Plumber show you the proper way to sweat copper pipes. Big Tony will actually answer Any questions you may have regarding plumbing. Visit the website for more free instructional DIY videos.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing: Expanded 4th Edition – Modern Materials and Current Codes – All New Guide to Working with Gas Pipe (Black & Decker Complete Guide)
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing: Expanded 4th Edition - Modern Materials and Current Codes - All New Guide to Working with Gas Pipe (Black & Decker Complete Guide)
Fresher and more complete than ever, this edition includes new material and revised information and is completely current with the 2006 Universal Plumbing Code. From basic repairs to advanced renovations, this is the only plumbing reference book a homeowner needs. And now, for the first time, Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Plumbing includes a comprehensive section on working with gas pipe. No other big book of plumbing for DIYers covers this important subject.
Also new to this 4th edition is expansive coverage of PEX (cross-linked polyethylene), the bendable supply tubing that's taking over a major portion of the DIY market. And with the current popularity of outdoor kitchens, we've expanded our coverage of outdoor plumbing as well. Now, we'll show you every step of the process to supply and drain an outdoor sink.
Plumbing (1995, Hardcover, Spiral)
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How to Find The Depth of a Fishing Swim by Plumbing
Whereas small fish can be found at all depths of the water, the larger fish often tend to stay near the lake or river bed. So, if you want to catch a larger fish one of the best methods is to place the hook bait on or very near the water’s bottom, although they can also be taken mid water.
The only way of properly guaranteeing the hook bait is on the water’s bottom is to use a ledger weight, although many anglers do not like this method of angling and prefer to use a float or a bobber. Fortunately, there is a way of setting the float so the hook bait is suspended just off the bottom, although it is a method that will only work up to a maximum depth so it is not suitable for exceptionally deep water.
Finding the bed of the water with the intention of fishing with a float is referred to as plumbing and it is not a difficult thing to do. In order to find the depth of the swim, i.e. plumb it, a special weight called a plumbing weight can be bought. These plumbing weights are no more than a flat bottomed tungsten weight with a swivel at the top. Running along the bottom of the plumbing weight is a strip of cork, which is used as a temporary hook board whilst the plumbing weight is in use.
The first stage of plumbing involves setting up the rod and line and putting a float on to the line. It is important the float can slide up and down the line easily but is semi fixed, i.e. it remains at the depth pre-determined by the angler and is tight on the line. A float in a semi fixed state will remain where it is on the line, unless physically moved by the angler. A float is semi fixed to the line by using float bands. Whilst a band can be used at the top and bottom of the float, the best ways is to use a float band at the top of the float and thread the line through the eye at the bottom of the float. Using this method the float will definitely remain on the line if the float band snaps, and they often do, as it will still be attached to the line. If the float bands snap and the float is only attached to the line in this way the float will come off the line and is likely to be lost. A hook is then tied to the tag end of the line.
The hook is threaded through the eye of the plumbing weight and then embedded in to the cork strip at the bottom. The swim can be plumbed, even if the angler doesn’t have specifically designed plumbing weight since it is possible to use a standard ledger weight. When using a ledger weight the tag end of the line should be tied directly to the eye of the ledger and not to a hook, although the hook will need to be tied to the line once the depth of the water has been established.
With the hook and the weight on the line the angler needs to slide the float up the line to an estimated depth. For example, if the angler thinks the water is four feet deep the distance from the weight and the bottom of the float should be four feet. With an estimated depth set the float and weight should be cast out in to the water.
If the float disappears out of sight the water is deeper than the estimated depth, therefore the float and weight should be retrieved and the float slid further up the line away from the weight before being cast out once more.
If the float lies on the surface of the water the float is set too deep therefore the float and weight should be retrieved and the float slid down the line and closer to the weight before being cast out again.
Plumbing the depth is simply trial and error and the float will need to be moved up and down the line until the float sits upright in the water since this indicates the correct depth has been found. Once the float is in the right position the angler should cast the float in different places around the swim to ensure the location found isn’t on a shelf or in a crevice. Once the angler is satisfied the swim is uniform depth the float and weight can be brought in and the plumbing weight or ledger weight can be removed. The appropriate lead shot to cock the float can then be applied to the line between the bottom of the float and the hook.
With the hook now set at the correct depth, the appropriate amount of split shot to cock the float on the line and the hook baited up it is simply a case of casting out and waiting for the fish to come and bite.
